Map of 2012 trip

reflections, stories and gratitude

September 2, 2012

I have just returned to Canada from my trip to Ireland with Matt. It was a great experience that far exceeded my hopes. It was great to travel with Matthew and he was very tolerant/accepting of my idiosyncrasies. Thank you Matt.

I have made a point of not reading the blog while on route and just completed reading it now for the first time. I was very impressed by Matt's writing and it is interesting to discover his perspective of things. I was moved by the experience. There are many experiences that we did not share as they were personal and private. I believe that the trip solidified the bond between us. Matt, I am proud of the role that played in your creation and thereby help make the world a better place. I love you.

I also want to say a few words about family history and stories that I have gleaned from my conversations with relatives.

The property in Glenmaquin (the Hill)(on border of Creggan postal district) was bought by Hetheringtons in 1850. During the period, 1850 to late 1960's (when it was sold to Mr. Olsen) the hill was populated by a number of families, namely the “Johnstons, McCleans and Hetheringtons”. These families tended to be quite poor, and most socializing and marriages were with people who lived in close proximity. As a result The Creggan/Glenmaquin area was populated by a small number of families who were highly interconnected by blood and marriage.

According to Tommy Johnson (he is the husband of my aunt Eileen)(see: video) The Johnstons, McCleans, and Hetherington's had historical relationships going back to the time of Cormwell. The Hetherington's were associated with supplying the Cromwell's army and (in addition to military service) worked as bakers and butchers etc., After the plantation period they were employed as stone masons, builders and labours. Documents from the period note my grandparents as labourers.

The Johnstons were originally Scot's from Aberdeen (I think) the Hetherington's from Northumberland. (secondary reference: Steel Bonnets reveivers from Hethersgil). The Johnston's tended to be farmers and landowners and bought a plot of 60 acres at the time of plantation. This eventually subdivided among between three Johnston owners. In 1850 the Hetheringtons (who had some sort of traditional relationship with the Johnstons) bought the top 2.5 acres of this plot. In the early 1900' s there were at least 6 inter-related residences on or near this original 60 acres. As David put it – you were limited when the “only women you could marry were within walking distance.”

One often told story from this period was about the drainage dyke that Williams James (who lived with my grandparents) dug “aye – he was a great man with a shovel”.

Most immediate Hetherington ancestors left the hill in the 1960's and are buried in Whitechurch cemetery in Ards (near Newtonards). There are several references to the name at St. Eunnan's in Raphoe. Although the relationship the Hetherington's in the graveyard of this Church is not clear, they are undoubtedly related. The most confirmed relational presence at St. Eunnan's is that of Nathaniel Heatherington who is noted on the wall as victim of WWI. Apparently, he died in November 1914 in Belgium and his name also appears on the monument at Ypres.

The property is located at the end of L1017 (I think this is the correct number). Andrew Hetherington told me that his dad (Johnston) would often go camping on the land there in the summer. Andrew has given me directions on how to get there that I have saved in a separate file. It is difficult to find as all the fields look the same. In brief, once you are at the point that the 1017 ends you are more less required to cross several muddy marsh, moss and heather fields. Once on the property, there is an old hawthrone tree growing next to a pile of dirt (which is the bulldozed pile of rubble that was the old house). Also near the pile is an old oak tree. The property has a great view (it is at the top of the hill) to the north lies the Letterkenny valley, to the south east the Donegal town gap, the south west Beltany Celtic stone circle on a neighbouring hill top.

The house had a thatched roof and three connected parts: a cow shed, an living area, a bed room. There was also and outhouse and up stream a water well. The house was heated by a peat fire which would always have a kettle on the boil. The kettle or pot would be suspended over the fire on a swinging L pole that allowed it to turned out of the fire when needed. Such as system was also used to cook the famous Irish stew.

The house is now a pile of rubble over grown with grass. There several pictures on record of when it was still standing, This time we took pictures of Matt, David Johnston (who lives in the family home) and I standing on the rubble pile. David was also very kind to show us around and help arrange things. After the tour we met Tommy Johnston and we drove around to visit the school that my dad attended.

The story about the sale of land in the mid 1960's is something like this: my after my grandparents and William James left for Newtownards and died, my dad wanted to form a sort of family trust and keep the land in the family for recreational use. To accomplish this would have meant putting ownership in a single name and the family group paying annual taxes etc. My father did research in Dublin to try to get this to happen but died before the project could be completed. The land was subsequently sold and profits divided. I have in my procession two artifacts that I got from the house in 1964. They are a hand bell and a potato masher.

One story from the early days on the Hill was that seamstress women would walk 15 miles to Derry to pick up shirt pieces (Derry was a textile centre) that they would sew together into garments at home for cash. On day a McClean girl was walking back from Derry with a heavy load of material when she saw an apparition blocking her path. The girl noticed that the apparition had nice shoes on while she had almost no footwear. She said: “you have better shoes that I do I'll not get out of your way!” and proceeded to walk through the apparition. When she did she heard the apparition say she'd best take care because she would be attacked by wild dogs (they roamed the country at the time). Sure enough the next day she was attacked and was only saved when a farmer helped her into his cart and beat off the dogs with horse whip.

The McCleans seemed to have musical flair and it said that they could play a tune after hearing it only once. They played the pipes and a number of other traditional instruments. Mosey McClean was especially well thought. The story is that he was drowned after jumping or being robbedépushed off the Tower Bridge in London. His two sons also drowned in what appears to be a suicide in Scotland some years later.

Apparently Mosey liked to drink and one night on the way back from the pub in Raphoe he managed to capture a “wee folk” who lived in the roots of a hawthorn tree. As is the custom, Mosey was able to obtain a pocket full of gold in return for freeing the creature. With pockets full gold he stumbled his way up the road to his house and quickly passed out. Next morning just before dawn he woke and remembered his good fortune from the night before. Checking his pant pockets he found them empty but also noticed that they had holes in them. He then rushed to the door just in time to see a trail of gold back to the spot of the encounter. They had fallen out of his pocket through the holes. What joy! he`d be rich if only went back and picked them up. Unfortunately, the sun rose several seconds later and as the sun struck these precious metals they turned back into plain stone before his very eyes and his hopes were dashed. Once again had the wee folk out foxed a man and left him wanting!

Everyone on the Hill was staunch Scot-Irish Protestants. Many of their descendants continue involvement with the Orange and Black Orders to this day. Many were involved in the UDA and other protestant para-military defensive units. One of my Orange/UDA family members told me that he heard the story about my father going to Holland to stop an IRA arms shipment. In his version however, dad facilitated an arms shipment to the Irish Protestant defence forces rather than stopping a shipment to the IRA.

It is said that the Scot-Irish are more British than the British. You could certainly see the “patriotism”/British connection everywhere. Lots Ulster and UK flags, pictures of the Queen, etc. In some areas (including where cousin Andrew lives) there are pro UK murals on walls etc. (photos in separate entry). This pro British militaristic perspective is not a new tradition in the Hetherington family. I suspect that this connection to the Orange/Black Orders, militarism, and related world view is multi-generational. For example, Andrew gave me a copy of a 1912 Covenant signed by many Hetherington's MacLean's Allan's, Williards and Johnston's. Each signatory lived in Creggan Raphoe (or environs). The documents title is: 2138 Sheet No 7; East Raphoe; Donegal). I believe it was signed in a Presbyterian Church.

The Covenant is a 1912 declaration by those who opposed to “home rule” (semi-independence from Britain). The document declares the people of Ulster are “loyal subjects... calls on crown to protect loyal subjects... defend rights to be “equal citizens in UK... by using all means.... to defeat home rule...

In other words a declaration of their preparation readiness to fight the UK government if it moved toward the independence of Ireland. In others fight the UK to stay in the UK.

The document is also interesting because the same hand signed for several relatives who subsequently endorsed their signature with an x. Williams James signed for Johnston Hetherington and perhaps Alex Allen. Absent, at least from this page, is my grandfather's signature. Was he on the hill looking after the farm? Away?

Within my generation Protestant tradition continues with many people my age having been or are active members of the Orange Order. Many are/were involved with protestant para-military organizations. This military tradition (border reveivers, Cromwell, Irish revolution, WWI, WWII, “the troubles”, the Orange Order and the UDA) has had a strong influence on the people baring the name of Hetherington since the 1500s.

Today, the most visible sign of the troubles in Northern Ireland are in the posters and flags. British stuff is everywhere and Republic murals etc. mark Catholic areas. Republican murals are most common in Free Derry and the Falls Road section of Belfast and Protestant and pro UK in the Shankhill area of Belfast. I have attached copy of photos that I took of examples of these murals. These murals remember the martyrs of both sides. Twice a year the Orange and Black Orders to commemorate historic victories. These marches can lead to open conflict between the two communities.

During the 1921 troubles my dad spoke of a machine gun being placed in the belfry of St. Eunnan's in order to control the diamond and his school building being used as a Black and Tan barracks. As a result, he left school after 4 year or 5 years but eventually graduated as a mature student from New Westminster Secondary School in 1973. This lack of formal education did not mean that he was not self-educated. He was fairly well read and a keen follower of world events.

During the 1921 troubles he was self reportedly a messenger for the Black and Tans. He was captured by the IRA and thrown against the wall to be shot. Fortunately, someone with foresight had given him a rosary and made him learn the appropriate prayer. At the prospect of being shot he brought it out and started “Hail Mary.... “ Upon seeing this the IRA thought they had made a mistake, that he was in fact a Catholic, and let him go. A lesson in safety planning I guess?

Of course, my dad's role in WWII and on going involvement in the Canadian military and prison system and my generation’s involvement in Sea Cadets are other examples of the tradition of service in uniform. Today religion still plays a role and it can be poorly seen to marry out of one's community.

I want to thank everyone who attended the fine party that Pauline Johnston offered us where many of these stories were recounted. A special thanks David for showing us around the hill, Tommy Johnston for sharing so much of his knowledge about the family and his generosity at hosting the event. To Aunt Eileen whose presence deeply moved me.

Winston and his family for their hospitality, conversation and friendship. I trust that we will make use of the email connections that we made during this short period.

The next family related stop was in Newtownards were I met my cousins Molly and Lorna. Molly is an avid traveller and spoke to us of her trips to southern Germany. Lorna lives in a fine country home and has property. They took us for tea and to my grandparents (and other relatives) grave site at Whitechurch (Ards). It was great to see them both and learn of their lives and families.

At 5pm, Lorna and Molly dropped us off and we went to Andrew and Rita's for dinner. Andrew is recovering from a cancer surgery and in spite of this he and Rita were generous and welcoming hosts. Andrew had been a sailor and his usual run was between Ireland and South Africa. He met his wife Rita on shore leave. They subsequently married and had two boys. Andrew left the sea to become a fire fighter in Belfast (Winston was also a firefighter). During the troubles, as a firefighters, they would be inside the no go zone of a bomb incident, waiting to clean up after the blast while a robot attempted to defuse the bomb. The bombers would typically give a 10 minute warning and tell people to clear the area which in turn allowed sometime for the firefighters to arrive and attempt to minimize death and damage. Truly a difficult job that required courage.

Andrew showed me/us many documents, photos and archival objects. Four objects were little toy potato gun rifles that my father and his brother Johnston played with as children, a tin box with two cigars and books of matches left by my father in 1943 and a really cool Masonic digger that my father gave to Andrew saying that it was taken from a died German. Why dad said that a knife was taken from a a German unless incidentally the German was also a Mason is not clear. As an aside the digger had a skull on it as does the Masonic sash that I have from my father. Matt took pictures of these objects and documents. Andrew also said he'd try to forward electronic copies of some of these photos and papers, as he could.

Thank you Andrew and Rita for the fine time and meal that we shared.

Well I could go on and on about my current understanding of family history. I invite any readers who could add, edit or correct this tale to do so. On condition that your comments be added to the blog and accessible to other readers.